Nahe, Germany
Schiefer means slate, and this entry-level Riesling captures the character of the Nahe’s mineral-rich soils with clarity and precision. Grown on steep, terraced vineyards and fermented in stainless steel, the wine is clean, dry and intensely aromatic. Expect notes of lime zest, green apple, white peach and wet stone. The palate is taut and linear, with brisk acidity and a razor-sharp, saline finish. There’s a quiet complexity beneath the freshness that elevates it above typical Gutswein. It pairs effortlessly with sushi, grilled vegetables or Asian-inspired cuisine. A brilliant introduction to the estate’s crystalline style.
A VDP member, Stefan Rumpf has vineyards in the Rheinhessen as well: a single hectare at Bingen. But most of the vineyards are in the steep, narrow side valley of the Nahe, where the family have cultivated vines since 1708. With 300 years under the estate’s belt, Stefan and his team focus on incremental improvements – we’ve been working with them since 2014 and it’s gratifying to see the complexity and focus tighten gently with each passing vintage.
As with every VDP estate, Riesling is the focus but there are plots of Chardonnay, Scheurebe, Gewürztraminer and the Pinot clan. Our focus remains on their gloriously ripe Rieslings: the ‘house’ Riesling Shiefer with its substantial, mineral-driven and taut mouthful, the Riesling Bingerbrücker Abtei is the new kid on the block with a sparky, fiery, concentration bequeathed by the Devon slate alongside tons of elderflower and minerality. The Im Pitterberg Grosses Gewächs is the star performer with a complex, salty character and endless layers of floral and fruity aromas. The Im Pitterberg Kabinett Münsterer (same vineyard but less favoured aspect) is a light-as-a-feather classic off-dry Riesling with rather wonderful tropical notes and superb balance.