Nahe, Germany
This Grosses Gewächs (GG) from the Pitterberg vineyard is a flagship dry Riesling of immense structure, salinity and long ageing potential. Vines here grow on steep, south-facing slate slopes, producing fruit with low yields and high aromatic intensity. The wine is fermented with wild yeasts and matured on lees in stainless steel for added depth. Aromas of lime zest, white peach, fennel seed and crushed rock lead into a dense, compact palate. There’s steely acidity, strong mineral drive and a savoury, persistent finish. It’s a serious, contemplative wine made for ageing. Serve with smoked trout, veal tartare or fine vegetarian fare. A monument to dry Riesling purity.
A VDP member, Stefan Rumpf has vineyards in the Rheinhessen as well: a single hectare at Bingen. But most of the vineyards are in the steep, narrow side valley of the Nahe, where the family have cultivated vines since 1708. With 300 years under the estate’s belt, Stefan and his team focus on incremental improvements – we’ve been working with them since 2014 and it’s gratifying to see the complexity and focus tighten gently with each passing vintage.
As with every VDP estate, Riesling is the focus but there are plots of Chardonnay, Scheurebe, Gewürztraminer and the Pinot clan. Our focus remains on their gloriously ripe Rieslings: the ‘house’ Riesling Shiefer with its substantial, mineral-driven and taut mouthful, the Riesling Bingerbrücker Abtei is the new kid on the block with a sparky, fiery, concentration bequeathed by the Devon slate alongside tons of elderflower and minerality. The Im Pitterberg Grosses Gewächs is the star performer with a complex, salty character and endless layers of floral and fruity aromas. The Im Pitterberg Kabinett Münsterer (same vineyard but less favoured aspect) is a light-as-a-feather classic off-dry Riesling with rather wonderful tropical notes and superb balance.