Situated in the cru of Lugana di Sirmione and nestled up against the Veneto border, Nunzio Ghiraldi’s vineyards are exceptionally close to Lake Garda in the very best part of this now-sprawling DOC. In the thick clay soils that line in the ‘golden mile’ immediately south of the lake, Turbiana picks up huge concentration even if the soil makes for hard work in the vineyard. With some vines now 60 years old (used for the Sant’Onorata Cru) Nunzio is justifiably proud of his family’s heritage. The winery is just up the road from the medieval farmhouse and bristles with stainless steel (neither wine is oaked). The harvest is entirely manual and it’s always whole-bunch press and then into tank with very little skin contact. Yields are always under 65 hl/ha. This might sound like a lot but, for Lugana, it is a mere trifle.
Nunzio’s Lugana ‘Il Gruccione’ is blended from vineyards of varying ages and he considers it the best expression of what 100% Turbiana can deliver. He is vehemently opposed to blending in any other grapes and the complex notes of peach, apricot, melon, hazelnut and white flowers suggest that Turbiana doesn’t need to lean on any other variety for support. The Sant’Onorato offers more intensity and body but keeps the family resemblance. Both will age gracefully for a decade.