Rossano Sgammini has created something rather special at Crespaia. Perched in the rolling hills above Fano and just a few kilometres from the Adriatic, this small organic estate takes its name from the rippling of the sea – ‘crespe’ – and the honest integrity of the farm – ‘aia’. Since 2011, Rossano has patiently replanted the vineyards, restored the cellar and set about championing two of Marche’s greatest indigenous varieties: Bianchello and Sangiovese.
There are no shortcuts here. Everything is harvested by hand and farmed organically, with the sea breezes of the Adriatic tempering the summer heat and preserving freshness in the grapes. The resulting wines are wonderfully expressive of place - saline, vibrant and impossibly drinkable. The Bianchello combines citrus and white stone fruit with a characteristic mineral edge, whilst Chiaraluce, the estate’s Superiore bottling, offers greater texture, complexity and remarkable finesse. These are wines that speak quietly but confidently of their origins.
Marche remains one of Italy’s best kept secrets. Crespaia is a compelling reminder of why that cannot last forever.
