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Colli Tortonesi Barbera DOC 'Monleale'
Piedmont, Italy
Barbera from Monleale gains stature and structure thanks to limestone soils and careful, traditional vinification that elevates the grape far beyond its everyday reputation. Massa’s ‘Monleale’ is fermented with native yeasts and aged in large oak casks, resulting in a wine that is powerful, age-worthy and deeply expressive. The nose opens with dark cherry, balsamic spice, black plum and dried herbs, offering both ripeness and restraint. On the palate, it is expansive and savoury, with bright acidity, structured tannins and a mineral backbone that gives focus. The finish is long, earthy and vibrant, showing the grape’s natural tension and depth. A perfect companion to braised meats, wild mushroom polenta or hard regional cheeses. This is Barbera with serious intent.
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The Producer
Five generations of Massas laboured tirelessly to keep the Timorasso flame alight whilst cheap Pinot Grigio and Prosecco rolled past by the truckload. It’s not difficult to see the origins of Walter’s frustration. Here on the steep hills just east of Tortona grow the last few hectares of Timorasso in the world. An ancient variety with thick skins, low yields, high disease susceptibility and immense concentration, it ought to be served by the glass in every restaurant with even the slightest aspirations to a decent wine list.
Walter makes various iterations of Timorasso – ‘Derthona’ (the Latin name for Tortona) is the standard-bearer. Beneath that sits the ‘Piccolo Derthona’ and above are the lofty, single-vineyard iterations including ‘Costa del Vento’, ‘Montecitorio’ and ‘Sterpi’. None of them is aged in oak – we have Mother Nature (and Walter) to thank for all that concentration. Next door sits his Barbera ‘Monleale’ and another bit of wonderful Walter weirdness, the 100% Croatina ‘Pertichetta’.
Now, 25 years after we first imported it, Timorasso is a cause célèbre with sommeliers from every corner of the globe beating a path to his door. I couldn’t be happier. Walter smiles with bemused resignation. It’s a funny old world.
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