March, Italy
‘Mirum’ is a Riserva Verdicchio made only in the best vintages, aged on lees and in bottle for extended time to develop remarkable depth and nuance. La Monacesca selects fruit from old vines, yielding a wine that balances power with tension. Aromas of honeyed citrus, almond, hay and wild herbs lead into a dense, structured palate with intense minerality and subtle salinity. A fine oxidative note adds complexity without heaviness. The finish is long, savoury and persistent, hinting at chamomile and toasted almond. Ideal for truffle risotto, game birds or white meats. A grand white with serious ageing potential.
Aldo Cifola runs this 16ha estate with quiet determination and a confidence that comes not from arrogance but from watching sales boom and the awards roll in. He assumed the reins in 1985 after his father, Casimiro, retired and Aldo quickly set about improving what was already a winning formula. His top wine, Mirum, has now scooped the Tre Bicchiere award (Italy’s wine Oscars) on four separate occasions.
No rocket science here: just low yielding, late harvest, old vine Verdicchio sourced from a marvellous parcel high in the Apennines. The cold nights and hot days in the Matelica valley deliver a rare balance of lively acidity and high alcohol reminiscent of Burgundy. The 2011 Verdicchio shows guava, Braeburn apple and an ethereal herbal note. The 2010 Mirum has more fruit but also more of the grip conferred by the mineral-rich soils of Matelica with superb natural acidity. Aldo and I recently tasted vintages back to 1993 and I was left in no doubt as to this wine’s astonishing longevity. Without exception the wines were vigorous, fresh and still acquiring complexity. Mirum offers extraordinary value.